How to Cut Myself - Let Me Count the Ways

June 16 – June 22, 2008

They say that “chicks dig scars”, so I must be a real chick magnet. I doesn’t matter what I do, working on this car has my arms, shoulders, face, legs and ankles (ouch) are battered, cut and bruised. That one bolt or nut is always in the worst spot to get to, but I will not be deterred – no matter how many times I bleed. So if your love life is lacking, just do a EV conversion and it will dramatically improve (those ER nurses won’t stay away). And just so you don’t think I’m some male, chauvinistic pig, us guys dig a scar or two ourselves. Heck, my wife just had a little wrist surgery and I can’t keep my hands off from her!

On to the car…

The battery boxes are in (the out, then in). The very front box (holds three) I figured would be a piece of cake. It sits between the frame rails and had just eight holes to drill. After a bit of cussing and discussing, it went in. After trying it with my battery models I had to figure out how to get the real batteries in – a bit of a tight fit. Next came the other front rack (a day later). Since this one was supported on the frame rails, I decided two bolts were enough. One bolt went into an abandoned hole from something I removed (already threaded and I found the old bolt!), but the other went into the frame rail itself. I wanted to hit a flange that was on top to avoid trying to get a nut and washer inside of the frame rail. I succeeded, but the hole ended up in a place that required a contortionist with three arms to get to. I only had to remove this rack once after I installed it. Next to the back where the rack above the motor was first. I did a lot of guessing when I built this rack. I knew where I wanted it to go, but it had a mind of its own. This is also the biggest rack – a four holer. When I tried to get it in, I actually did a great job of getting it stuck. I refused to undo the transmission cables, so I exercised my right to mumble a few choice words, got out the crowbar, and unstuck the beast. Reality set in and I got out the Saws-all. I figured it was safe to cut two of the braces in half and just reposition them. I got it to fit, drilled a couple of holes and marked to for welding. Once welded, it went right in. Then I noticed that one corner was unsupported, so back to the shop – it was a quick fix. As a soapbox moment, better safe than sorry. Batteries weigh a lot folks and to hit a bump and have them come crashing down, it’s worth the extra effort (and time) to do it right to avoid this from happening. If you are at a crossroads of “just git ‘er done” or doing it right, take the high road. Plus I can guarantee you that if it fails, it will damage the most expensive part – I’m off of my soapbox. With box number three repainted and ready to go, I went for the last one – a two spot in the old rear trunk. I really wanted to put the spare in the trunk, so I cut a piece of the frame off. I wasn’t structural, so I figured it was worth a try – it didn’t work, but I did save a pound or two. This rack was getting two bolts. It is supported by frame members on each end and part of the trunk lip along one side. I just had to hit the frame in the same way I did the front box. The hole ended up in a tiny corner that I could only reach with a 12” ratchet extension. I quickly got a nut and lock washer on it and moved on.

With all four racks in (and out and in) it was time to get the batteries. Getting those old batteries for cores was great - it saved me over $100. The final bill for my 12 Deka 9A31 AGM Intimidators was just over $1800. Part of the Belktronix system is a battery management system (BMS) that is integrated with the charger. Each battery has both overcharge protection and a temperature sensor. I plan on doing a religious job of breaking in my pack and taking good care of them overall. The death of many EV’s is the battery pack. Discharging them too deep and too often, over (or under) charging them and in general abusing them will kill a pack. In an overly optimistic way I am hoping to get 5-6 years out of this pack, but 4 would be great. There are tales of some folks doing this and I want to be part of the legend. And at $1800, I want to squeeze every once of life I can get from them. A BMS is the way to go and it is something you should investigate.

With batteries in hand (all 850 lbs or so), it was time to fill up those racks. I started in the front again (lots of good places to cut myself) and filled the front rack. I use a product called Coro-Plas (corrugated plastic) to line my boxes. It’s tough stuff and provides a cushion on the bottom and well as in between. I made the boxes slightly oversized to let me use the Coro-Plas and it also allows me to get everything nice and snug. Again, you don’t want these batteries moving around. One rack down, one to go (front only today). A week or two ago I was removing stuff up front when I pulled out a sensor from the heater area. I stuck in my parts box and forgot about it. Before I put the batteries in, I realized I need to put it back. I saw a few leaf bits in the hole and got out the Shop-Vac. One bit led to another and before you know it I had the entire blower system removed. It gave me a chance to get the rest of the unneeded A/C stuff out and the whole pile of leaves that were in there. Rack two was filled when I realized the terminals were not working out the way I wanted them to. The front six batteries are getting linked to the rear six to make up my 144V pack (by way of two 2/0 cables). I wanted to have a positive and negative terminal close to each other to make it easier to run these cables. Those nice and tightly fitted batteries in the lower box had to be switched around. Thank God I removed my hood from the car before I started or it would have been near impossible to get that one battery turned around. With everything in order, I got the other three batteries in place and packed with Coro-Plas. Adding over 400 lbs to the front of the car certainly lowered it. There is still a little spring left in the front springs, so I don’t think I have bottomed out yet. I will have to wait until I get a chance to drive it before I see if bigger springs (or air shocks) are needed. I am going to wait on the wiring until I get everything ready – having 72V (or 144V) just waiting to zap me is a scary thought. I one time arc welded a Seiko watchband (while on my wrist) across two alternator terminals at about 14V – 144V would really hurt (but just think of the scar).

In the back I had some old ICE wiring to deal with before putting in the batteries. For now I am zip tying them up just to get them out of the way. I figure that if I need something later, it would be easier to deal with still intact. But just to make the back of the car less jealous, I made up my jumper cable for my motor. That pretty, green 2/0 cable across the A1 and S1 terminals is just the start to the wiring nightmare that awaits me, so I better get some sleep. So until next week….

I've been framed...

June 9 – June 15, 2008

Strange week… I had some training at school to do this summer with occurred on Wednesday and Thursday. I was tired of trying to get my lab clean so I took Monday and Tuesday off to work on the Fiero. Plus, two of my ordered items were coming at the beginning of the week and I did not want to miss them.

In preparation to doing the battery boxes, I figured I needed to get some cable for the batteries. I checked with Belktronix (Bryan) for his recommendations and he suggested 2/0 welding cable. I checked Ebay and saw quite a few, but as you know, bidding can get crazy. We have a big welding supply shop in town, but they did not carry cable in bulk. Strangely enough, one of the ad sites on Ebay sent me to http://www.weldingsupply.com/ and they are great. Not only are their prices good, but they also had crimpers and lugs real cheap. I ordered enough cable to do what I think I need to do and have a plan to make my own connections – we’ll see. That box arrived two days later as did my first box of electronics from Belktronix (controller w/fan, system integrator module, pot box and contactor). Lots of cool stuff to look at! Back to the battery boxes. The same person who suggested the bed frames also mentioned the hardness of the steel – it’s hard. I killed a Saws-all blade in about 15 seconds and went to plan “B”. I bought a Roto-zip several years ago and it has seen its share of jobs. I came with a metal cutting disc and it cut right through the bed frames. The only problem was I got 4-5 cuts per disc and I had a long was to go. I checked Lowe’s for replacement discs, but at $2.50 each, I went to Harbor Freight. I got a 10 pack for $6.00 and only had to open up the hole a bit to fit my Roto-zip. I got just as many cuts for a fraction of the cost – yeah Harbor Freight. Because the batteries are common sizes, I was able to figure out one box and reuse the dimension – just change the configuration of the box. Two bed frames proved to be just right with a little left over. Four battery boxes made for less than $30.00 and some welding time. I did most of the welding before my training at school. I added hold down tabs (1x1x1/8” angle) to each box as well as mounting pieces out of 2” x 1/8” flat stock to attach them to the car. I had to guess on the box that fit above the motor and it required a slight modification. I gave them a quick paint job to keep them from rusting (I plan on finishing them in flat black) since they are living on the back porch. I hope to have them installed next week.

I also had a chance to finish the plug installation. I found a piece of 3/8” Delrin plastic and made an adapter to mount the plug to it and also it to the car. When I cut out the gas filler tube, I made the hole too big for the plug to just fit in, so I had to make the adapter to clean things up – looks pretty good if I do say so myself. I reinstalled the door and I only need to remove the “Unleaded Fuel” sticker. Another side project involved installing a rack/spoiler on the Fiero. I purchased a used trunk last year that had the rack on it. My plan was simple – swap them out, but so much for a simple plan. After changing hinges and a louver, I noticed a crack in the new trunk lid. No biggie until I saw the other crack on the opposite side. I checked my old one and it was good. I removed the rack from the used trunk, measured, drilled and installed it on my trunk and a few hours later, I have a rack/spoiler. Now my trunk is heavier and does not want to stay up, but I’ll figure it out!

So on the slate for next week… Install battery boxes, pick up batteries and install them, install cables and assorted hardware/electronics. Heck before you know it, I’ll be driving it. Until next week…

What a Week!

June 2 – June 8, 2008

I am going to add another day to this week’s blog because I just do not want to wait another week to update what I did today.

I did spend the week cleaning my lab at school and did not finish it, but that is what summer is for – I’ll get it done. I think it was Tuesday that I was talking with a friend about batteries and he told me he had a stash of dead (and I mean dead) back-up batteries from several systems he had been working on and I was welcome to them. This just solved my core deposit problem. I loaded up my truck they are now awaiting a trip to my battery dealer so I can order my traction pack – twelve, 9A31 Deka Intimidators! In preparation for installing my 12 pack, I made up six battery models to test out configurations in the car. My plan was to always do six in the front and six in back. I looked at several other Fiero set ups, but a lot of them used 6V batteries and managed to get 20 of them stuffed in there. My 12V, 12 battery pack was never intended to be a long distance conversion, so I gave up the few extra miles for the weight savings – and we are talking about 200-300 pounds at least. One thing I did not want to sacrifice was my spare tire and what little storage space I have. The spare usually fits up front, but it is going to the back. I have it crammed between two of the rear batteries in what used to be the rear trunk. If I ever need it, I will have to pull those batteries, but at least I will have it. The other four batteries fit neatly above the motor with room to spare on each side for the electronics. I only had to remove one small bracket in the rear to make everything fit. Up front was a different story. I knew things were tight before I started and it would require some cutting. Since I have opted to do without A/C, those things could be removed to make room. The low hood also made it challenging, but thanks to my Saws-all and sacrificing part of the front trunk, I have room for three batteries now. The other three went where the radiator use to be. I was a little concerned putting them that forward, but upon further review, there is a frame member that cages in those batteries and lots of contact points to attach everything. So as it stands, most of the weight is above the axle/wheels and for the better part it is balanced (6 front, 6 rear). I hope this also improves the Fiero’s handling – we’ll have to wait. I picked up another bed frame today and will start cutting and welding next week.

The other great news is part of my first electronics order has shipped. It includes my controller, throttle box, main contactor and system integration module. It’s a start and I can get started with its installation along with the batteries. I can feel that EV grin starting up as I write.

I fixed that leaking transmission seal. I had to take most of the passenger side apart, but it wasn’t that bad – maybe an hour. It’s to the point that I now know more about the rear end of a Fiero than I ever thought possible, and am glad that I do. And for all of you out there thinking about doing a conversion, don’t fear what you don’t know. I have done a lot of car stuff during my life, but nothing like this. Just some basic tools (socket set, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, a hammer or two) and a desire to finish what you start and even you can do it. Time is on your side when you do a conversion because you always have to wait for something – and this can be a good thing. Take time to plan what you are doing and always take the opportunity to fix things as you go. Enough of my soap box time.

Finally, I ripped (cut, destroyed) out the old gas filler tube to make room for my battery charger connection. I found a three pronged, 20A twist connector and plug at one of my electronics surplus stores in town and it’s a perfect fit where the tube use to be. It was a fight getting it out, but well worth the trouble. When done I will be able to use the current door (with lock) to hide my secret plug connection and it is just a few inches from where I plan to install my charger unit – life is good.

So until next week…..

The School Year is Over!

May 25 – June 1, 2008

The last week of school leaves nothing it terms of spare time. Give a final, grade a final, enter final grades into the computer – repeat. Add to that a monster student project and the week was shot.

I guess the best thing about a shot week is the opportunity not to work on the car. This blog has attracted a few other converters and it’s been fun emailing back and forth about my project and what they are doing. I read about a guy who used old bed frames to make his battery boxes, so I was checking out the local Goodwill store and found one frame for $5.00. If I bought the same amount of 1-1/4 angle iron it would have been $15-20 – thanks for the tip whoever you were (EVDL). Another fellow EV’er, Brian, is doing a Fiero also. I shared with him some adapter plate info that I hope will work for his V-6 Fiero (mine is a four cylinder). And I met another guy in Ohio that has used the Belktronix system I have ordered. So even when I am not working on the car, I am still learning and sharing – and that folks is what it is all about.

I almost forgot the only work I did do was to refill the transmission. As you may recall, when I bolted my adapter plate I realized that it was now stuck and I had to pop out the other CV joint to get it out. I figured that the seal would survive such a little movement – I just slipped it out and shoved it right back in. Guess what seal failed when I filled the transmission? Not only do I get to replace the seal, but I get to clean up all of that fluid. I am hoping I do not have to completely disassemble that side of the car, but with my luck, I will.

Next week I get to spend most of my time cleaning my lab at school. So it is going to be another slow week… so until next week…

Time To Get Serious...

May 18 – May 24, 2008

I received news that my WarP 9 was shipped Monday and it arrived at school on Tuesdays – yeah Fed Ex. Even better, it went to the front office and it was delivered to my room. There it was, all wrapped up on its little pallet just waiting for me to open it up – and I did. My fake motor model was pale in comparison to the real thing – all red and clean, but less I digress. Being only Tuesday, I figured why take it home for my wife to trip over, so I elected to leave it at school to show my students and friends. For those of you who have never taught school, the last two weeks are crazy. Students finishing projects, tests to prepare and give and all of those grades – thank God they just use 5 letters (but I do know a few that would get a “Z” if it were possible). Friday came and with a three day weekend ahead, it was time to take the motor home (as opposed to a motorhome).

It’s Saturday morning and I am mentally preparing to get it installed. I was only dreaming when I thought I could do it in an hour, but in reality it took less than five. First things first – get the fake motor out. Poster board and wood are not that heavy, but when you add the adapter plate, clutch, flywheel and motor adapter and stick it in a small hole, even this can be a challenge. Remember, it was all on the cradle when I installed it last time. I tried using the engine hoist, but it only got in the way. So with brute strength and those few choice words (please back, don’t fail me now), I got it out and was ready to install the real thing. I took all of my parts off from the fake motor and got my tools ready. The WarP 9 received a brand new lift bolt and took flight via the engine hoist. First up was the motor adapter. It slid right on and I tightened the set screws. The first one went in with no problems, but number two split at the top. I couldn’t get it out either, so a trip to the hardware store was needed anyway to get some shorter bolts for the adapter plate and a screw extractor small enough for the set screw. Seven dollars later I was home and got that screw out. Next up was the adapter plate and it fit perfect. My Plexiglas template worked great and every hole lined up on the money. Next the flywheel – and this is where problem number two arose. The spacing (and spacing is probably as critical as alignment) was off – by .157 inches. On my motor model I did not know exactly how deep the drive end pilot ring was so I guess and was off by .157 inches. The motor adapter was too long so another trip was in order – to my classroom so I could shorten it on the lathe. As you might have guessed, these two trips cost me an hour, but it was a beautiful day! So after taking it all apart, and reassembling it, I added the clutch and it was ready to go. Now I recruited my son and wife to finish the installation. I really did not want to take the trunk off so we opted for plan “B”, the squeeze play. One of us pushed while the other lowered it to clear the trunk lip. Once in the whole it was a matter of getting things to align. I knew this was critical because of my efforts to get it to work in the classroom with the fake motor. The clutch and transmission shaft and that darn spline all have to be right there in order for it to fit together. We tried several attempts and different positions before it slid in - and what a joyous moment it was!!! I was able to pull it together with just my hands afterwards and started to install the bolts. One after another they all fit and it was installed. The adapter on the other end aligned perfectly also, so it was four bolts and everything was secure. Weeks of planning with my fake motor paid big dividends in the end. Having to wait for the motor was a blessing in disguise. I can’t imagine trying to do all of this with the added weight of the real motor, either at school or home.

What’s next – battery racks… so until next week…

Together Again

May 11 – May 17, 2008

With rain predicted for several days this week I decided to balance work and conversion a little better – rainy days at work and dry days at home. I really wanted to get the car back together again (sounds like a good song title) and with only one day that was guaranteed dry, I hurried home Tuesday and got my tools ready. I got the big jackstands out and raised the car so I could slide everything underneath. Without the struts attached, it was much easier. I had the cradle on roller carts but soon realized that it needed to be on the legs of the engine hoist. After a few adjustments, I was ready to re-install the cradle. With bolts cleaned and greased, wrenches in hand, I positioned the cradle for the first bolt and it was in – no problems. To the other side and same result. Repositioned the hoist and the two rear bolts went right in – what a great day. Next came the new struts. Good old Harbor Freight to the rescue with a set of spring compressors and I was ready to put on the new struts. I have heard terror stories about these huge springs flying wildly through the air when they escape the confines of the compressor, so my main concern was my wife’s car in the driveway. I pointed everything away from it and used my body as a human shield. I can go to the hospital, but have you been to a body shop lately for repairs??? Anyways, again a great experience – both struts changed and ready to install. I do believe the struts on the car were original, evident by one that failed to create any compression. Five bolts per side and they were installed. They warn you that you will need an alignment when done and they are not kidding – the rear of my car looks bow-legged now. Feeling cocky, I figured why not re-install the brake calipers and the new rotors – big mistake.

New rotors are thick! I get out my C-clamps and try to compress the piston – no luck. I call my brother for some sage advice and still no luck. I try to get logical and still no luck. Even Mr. Hayes and Chilton are of no help. One caliper was not as good as the other and I figured Autozone to the rescue. With two new (remanufactured) calipers in hand I tried again. I had brake fluid all over the place – frustrated and tired, I closed up shop for the night. I just hate it when things like that happen. Wednesday was supposed to be rainy, but it missed us. Got home quickly and started over again. I finally got the piston compressed enough to get things to fit and got the drivers side installed. Feeling cocky again, I headed to the other side. The dry weather turned to a light drizzle – I was not going to be beat. Things went together fairly well and when I installed the brake line, brake fluid was running out all over the place. I tried to find the source to no avail. I took it off ready to take it back to Autozone when I realize the error of my ways – I put the copper washers on the brake line on wrongs and they never sealed. Once properly positioned all was well, except I did the same thing one the other side. The drizzle was more persistent but I wanted to put the wheels back on. This was the easiest thing I did all day. With everything back in place (or so I thought) it was time to get the Fiero back on terra firma. One side down – yea, but when I went to do the other side, the jackstand was positioned so the car was now balanced on one side – driver’s side on the ground, passenger side in the air. I grab my trusty (old) bottle jack and try to lift the front end while holding the rear up with a floor jack so I can get the jackstand out. My old (and not so trusty) bottle jack was not cooperating – and did I mention it was now raining! I finally get all four wheels on the ground and in the process on cleaning up I found a rubber washer from the passenger’s side caliper (a few choice words). I did not want to jack the car back up, remove the wheel, take apart the caliper and re-insert the washer. Instead I used the Braille method, reaching behind the wheel, taking off the bracket on the caliper, putting the washer back on and reassembling it by feel – and yes it was still raining. I will double check my work when I take the wheels off in the future, but for now, it was time to quit. As mentioned early, the car is now bow-legged. I remember way back whenever you saw an old VW with this same appearance it was because the motor was out and I thought this might be the case with the Fiero – not so. I would imagine it is a combination of not getting the struts properly aligned and the weight difference, but I won’t truly know until I get all of that battery weight installed.

I also got a new (at least new to me) Palm Pilot IIIc to try and use with E-meter. I found a program called EVDASH by Peter Ohler at ohler.com. I have yet to install it and try it out, but it is on my list of things to do. Until next week….

The Dreaded W's

May 4 – May 10, 2008

The dreaded W’s – weather and work. If April showers bring May flowers, what does it have to say about EV conversions? As stated earlier, I work on the car outside and when it rains, I stay inside. So as you can guess, it’s been a rainy week. As far as the other “W” goes, it’s the end of the school year and a time when the fancy of all young (teenage) hearts are looking to hanging out at the pool or trying to salvage their grade. Some are busy (makes me happy), while others are lazy. I could go on for pages about the current education system, but I will save it for another blog.

El Fiero received a little attention this week. First, I came up with a system (hopefully) to assemble the Warp9 to the transmission. It involves a short section of pipe, a couple of extra hands and a few of those choice words when things go wrong. I should have realized that something was going to be tough when I removed the ICE motor from the transmission. It required a crowbar and other tools of ICE destruction (TID’s). That ever critical alignment was an issue then and it carried over to the reassembly. As for my system, I get the motor near the spindle on the transmission while attached to the engine hoist. Next I take the pipe and put it under the adapter plate and bounce in up and down until the shaft and clutch align. Next I use those extra hands to slightly turn the CV shaft until the spline of the transmission shaft and clutch go together. On top of that, I also have a couple of clamps keeping light tension between the adapter plate and transmission so when all of the stars (and parts) align, everything just slides together. It’s not scientific, but it works. Once I got all of that figured out I finished the adapter to mount the motor to the frame (near the old ICE motor mount). Just to be on the safe side, I slotted the holes for both vertical and horizontal adjustments. Until I got this done, I figured there was going to be some movement in the whole assembly. But now the entire assembly is straight, level and more so, solid – I’m a happy guy. With all of that done, I took advantage of the best day of the week and brought everything home. I snagged a couple of students to help me load it into my truck and recruited the help of my loving wife to unload it at home. Now it sits on my back porch under a tarp awaiting another nice day to put it back in the car. I still have some wiring issues to take care of while the engine bay is empty, but I again am awaiting the rains to stop.

So until next week (3-4 days of rain predicted)….